Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and visitors equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city comes as little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has always defined its soul: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – little-known treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their younger generation do not want to take up the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people worldwide to explore these stories and experience the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
